I have a day off between Smithsonian trips and am enjoying Catania, Sicily, a town you may not have heard of but which has many great sights. From the balcony of the Ostello degli Elefanti I can look north and see the looming, and smoking, peak of Etna, always active, beyond one of Catania’s many Baroque domes, this one clearly referring to Brunelleschi’s famous dome over the Florence cathedral.