Naples is an enigmatic city. It is dirty and crime-ridden, yet it is my favorite Italian city; or at least in a tie with Palermo. The city does not reveal itself easily; it takes time and effort. But the rewards are many. The city’s art and architecture, its vibrant street life, and its unrivaled vernacular culture, all make it one of the world’s most engaging cities. Here fish mongers still break out into song in the streets. As a traveler, you must have a little courage to peel off the mask of Naples so that it may reveal itself to you in all its mystery and magnificence.